"Cultural Sharing or Stealing? Navigating the Boundaries of Respect"

Photo from Jillian Harris @pintrest

Have you ever hesitated before wearing a piece of clothing inspired by another culture? Wondering if it's a tribute or overstepping a boundary? Unfortunately you may have.

• Cultural Appropriation occurs when elements of a culture like traditional clothing, patterns, symbols, customs, practices or accessories are used by individuals or brands that are outside of that culture without the proper knowledge, understanding, respect or acknowledgment. This frequently leads to being inappropriate, disrespectful, exploitive, and stereotypical way. When this happens there is misrepresentation of a cultural heritage and it's stripping it from its original meaning.

• Cultural Appreciation is when people are respectfully engage, learn and understand with elements from another culture and are recognizing its significance, honoring its origins and giving credit to communities it originated from. Unlike cultural appropriation you are learning, acknowledgment, collaboration, and ethical participation. Within fashion you can now highlight and celebrate the beauty of different cultures through clothing with traditional elements in a respectful way with the cultures help and guidance.

Two Example of Cultural Appropriation:

A designer who was found guilty for cultural appropriation was Stella McCartney. Aligning with "Planet in Vogue" focusing on sustainability Stella McCartney herself and her brand have set good environmental standards just to name a few using eco friendly materials, cruelty free, recycled polyester, organic cotton, and regenerated cashmere. But, in 2017 during Fashion Week in Paris, the brand's collection used a pattern called Ankara print. The Ankara print is a traditional African print also called "wax print." This is very popular within West African countries like Nigeria and is usually distinguished from the bright colors, tribal patterns, designs and materials. Stella McCartney and her team did not acknowledge nor gave credit to the origins of the prints and there where also no models used from the culture. What's even worse is McCartney her self describe the line as "a joyful exploration of British style," while disregarding the African origin.

Photos are from getty images

Another example of cultural appropriation is Isabel Marant. Isabel Marant copied a traditional blouse from Oaxaca, Mexico specifically from the Mixe community of Santa María Tlahuitoltprc. Marant's blouse was featured in her 2015 Étoile collection that resembled the Tlahuitoltepec huipil. This is a traditional embroidered blouse that was worn by Indigenous Mixe women that represents heritage, identity and tradition that is passed down through generations. The brand and designer did not give Mixe artisans any credit nor acknowledge the blouse's origins. Which is very upsetting since these blouses are deeply rooted in Mixe culture and are handmade by artisans and any sales supports the Indigenous livelihoods. The Mexican government and the Indigenous rights activists called out Marant for plagiarism and demanded recognition for the Mixe artisans.

• Right is Marant

• Left is the original

Two Example of Cultural Appreciation:

An example of cultural appreciation is Ahluwalia. Ahluwalia is founded by an Indian-Nigerian and London roots designer named Priya Ahluwalia. This brand focuses on up cycling and ethical fashion. Priya uses inspiration from her multicultural heritage incorporating elements from her Nigerian (West African patterns) and Indian (traditional textiles) and British (streetwear) cultures into her designs. She gives existing material a new life through various textiles and patchwork techniques while honoring the traditions within her culture. From using repurposed sari fabrics and African wax prints in a fresh modern way, to her collection through a book called "Jalebi" is an Indian term that explores South Asian and Black British experiences by using historical references and prints, also referencing family photos, archival images and cultural symbols in her designs ensuring authenticity and respect. On top of that she collaborates with artists, photographers and filmmakers from diverse backgrounds.

Images from Ahluwalia

Last example of cultural appreciation is one of my favorites to learn and talk about which is Lukhanyo Mdingi; who is a South African designer located in Cape Town, South Africa. He is extremely commitment to ethical production practices and uses natural fibers from South Africa like wool, silk, linen, merino and mohair wool. Mdingi is always using his African heritage into clothing from bight colors and shapes. As African heritage is being lost more each day, he's trying to rebuild it. In his fall 2021 collection he partnered with Philani who is a South African non-profit organization that supports vulnerable mothers for their expertise in hand weaving. All the heavily textured scarfs within the collection represent the mothers of Philani. Within this line Mdingi connected with Cabes Gie which is an association of textile artisans located on Burkina Fase, Africa. With having these collaborators he is able to represent the craft and talent of mothers and the African communities of hand weaving. Everyday the heritage becomes stronger thanks to Mdingi and his collaborators.

Both photo came from lifestyle asia

More Readings:

I would definitely recommending checking out this websites:

• The Last Fashion Bible explains 11 times designers were called out for cultural appropriation. From Christian Dior, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy and many others. https://thelastfashionbible.com/2019/11/02/designers-cultural-appropriation/

• WWD - Women's Wear Daily explains the whole story of how cultural appropriation became a hot topic issue for fashion. This includes the backstory, backlash, and the breakdown. There are even more examples of appropriation being used like Jean Paul Gaultier's spring 2005 collection (WILD)https://wwd.com/feature/how-cultural-appropriation-became-a-hot-button-issue-for-fashion-1234579968/

Who should I check out next?

• I would recommend checking out Ciara Jones next. Her blogs focus on creative minds of the fashion world. Her site is called "The Paracosm," which stands for "an imaginary and detailed world created inside one's mind, and what is fashion if not Paracosm's manifested through dress, ornament, and attitudes."https://theparacosm111.wixsite.com/theparacosm111

  
  

• If you want to experience a blog thats "More than a Fad," check out Jayden Cohen-Boyce blog called "More than a Fad." This explores all the fun conversations of fashion thats intense and expansive of all the creations to the industry at large. https://morethanafad.wixsite.com/morethanafad

• I would also check out "Sydney Talks Sustainable," by Sydney Phillips. Her blogs focus on the fashion industry and sustainability. But if you want someone who is creative and can put it down on paper, determined to work for what she wants, adventurous, is able to have a balanced life between school work and family, and giving chic vibes this blog is for you. https://sydneytalkssustainable.wordpress.com/category/about/